Еlastic is a sewing notion for creating garments that fit comfortably and move with the wearer. What type of elastic you pick might seem unimportant, but don’t underestimate its impact! The right elastic can make a difference.
This guide will help you understand the different types of elastic and when to use them for beautiful, strong, professional-looking garments.
Types of Elastic
Most sewing elastic is built with a stretchy core (spandex or rubber) encased in fibers. The fibers can be polyester, nylon, or cotton. The weaving/knitting method (woven, knitted, braided) affects its use.
Considering how the fibers and rubber are combined, there are four main types of elastic: knitted, woven, braided, and round. Each type has its unique properties and is best suited for different applications.
Let’s dive deeper into each of these types.
Knitted Elastic
Knitted elastic is the most common type of elastic. It is soft, stretchy, and easy to sew, keeping its width when stretched. It also endures pins without getting damaged.
Knitted elastic is softer than woven and braided elastic, and this makes it appropriate for light to medium-weight fabrics. It is usually not as durable to endure heavier fabrics.
Available in a variety of widths and colors, knitted elastic is suitable for a wide range of garments, including underwear, swimwear, and sportswear. It can be applied directly on the fabric or used in a casing.
Woven Elastic (Non-row elastic)
You can identify woven elastic by its horizontal and vertical ribs. Like knitted elastic, it doesn’t get more narrow when stretched. Woven elastic is stronger and more durable than knitted elastic. It is also less likely to stretch out over time.
Woven elastic is a good choice for garments that need to be supportive and medium to heavyweight fabric garments and accessories such as outerwear, accessories, bags, and casings.
Braided Elastic
Braided elastic is the most stretching type of elastic. It is also the most lightweight and breathable. It has horizontal ribs that run across the length of the elastic. If you unravel a bit of the thread that is braided around the rubber strings you can easily see its structure (see the image of braided elastic below).
Unlike the other 2 types described above, it gets narrower when stretched. It also rolls more easily and tends to get stretched faster than other types of elastic when sewn over.
This makes it a good choice for use in casings placed on waistbands, sleeve hems, and necklines but not ideal for projects where you need to sew over the elastic.
Regular braided elastic isn’t suitable for swimwear and activewear as it stretches easily and doesn’t hold up to chlorine and sweat. There is an exception – cotton swimwear braided elastic is a specialty type of elastic that is chemically treated to resist stressors like chlorine, salt, and UV light. This makes it one of the most commonly used types of swimwear and activewear elastic (together with rubber swimwear elastic).
Round Elastic (Cord Elastic)
Round elastic is a type of braided elastic where the rubber is covered in a fabric sheath. This makes it more durable and less likely to fray.
Cord elastic is round and thicker than elastic thread. Depending on its width, it can be a good choice for garments that are exposed to a lot of wear and tear, such as workwear and outdoor apparel. Or, it can be used in hats, accessories, home decor items, etc.
Rubber elastic
As the name suggests, rubber elastic is made from rubber. It is often used in swimwear due to its water-resistant qualities.
In sewing, “rubber elastic” can refer to two different things:
1. Elastic with a rubber core: This is a common type of elastic where the stretchy element inside is made of rubber. The rubber is usually encased in a woven or knitted fabric covering like polyester, nylon, or cotton. This type of elastic is widely available and used for various purposes. Its strength and recovery can vary depending on the thickness and covering material.
2. Specialized swimwear elastic: This type of elastic is specifically designed for swimwear and activewear. It often has a thicker rubber core and a special coating to resist chlorine and sweat, making it more durable for garments exposed to these elements. Rubber swimwear elastic is often harder to find in sewing stores and might need to be ordered online or from specialized shops.
Clear Elastic
Unlike traditional elastics, clear elastic lives up to its name, offering a subtle and invisible finish. This makes it ideal for areas where you want the elastic to blend in, like delicate details on lingerie, necklines on sheer fabrics, or to stabilize seams in knit fabrics.
Clear elastic often comes in lighter-weight varieties compared to other types of elastic. It generally has less strength than traditional elastics, so it might not be suitable for applications requiring heavy-duty support. Its stretch factor can also vary depending on the type and thickness.
Types of elastic according to their use
Elastic thread (Shirring Elastic)
Elastic thread, also called a shirring thread, is used in the bobbin of a sewing machine to stitch lines or multiple rows that gather into a band.
Unlike regular thread, elastic thread has a core of spandex or rubber encased in polyester, nylon, or cotton. This combination allows it to stretch and retract, making it perfect for adding gentle gathers, ruching, and shirring to your sewing projects.
Think smocked bodices on dresses, comfortable waistbands on leggings, or even ruffled sleeves. However, its stretchiness has limitations. Don’t rely on it for heavy-duty support or lasting shape in garments that endure constant movement or strain.
Here is a tutorial on how to sew with elastic thread.
Buttonhole elastic
Buttonhole elastic has evenly spaced buttonholes woven along its entire length to make adjustable waistbands for pants and skirts. It is a popular choice for kids and maternity clothing to accommodate growth spurts.
Its strength lies in its adjustability, not heavy-duty support. So, while it excels in comfort and convenience, it’s not the best choice for projects demanding strong structure.
Here is a tutorial on how I use buttonhole elastic in a pair of kids’ pants.
Decorative and Exposed Elastic
Decorative elastic is embellished with beads, sequins, or other trims. This type of elastic is used to add a touch of flair to a garment.
Exposed elastic is elastic that is visible on the outside of the garment. This is a decorative way to use elastic, used to create different effects, such as ruching and gathering, as well as statement elastic waistbands. Exposed elastic can be branded, stamped with shapes, or knitted with colorful fibers.
I often use embellished and colorful elastic on underwear, dresses, and skirts to achieve a beautiful and neat finish.
There are many beautiful options on the market.
Fold-Over Elastic (FOE)
Fold-over elastic is designed to be folded over and sewn into the seam of a garment. This is a good way to hide the elastic and create a clean, finished look.
It is soft on one side and smooth on the other and has a ridge running through the middle, easing up the folding over the fabric.
Fold-over elastic doesn’t become more narrow as it stretches and holds its shape, which makes it a preferable choice for finishing armholes and necklines. It is widely used in lingerie and with knit fabrics, swimwear, and activewear.
Fold-over elastic, which you may find in patterns under the abbreviation FOE, comes in different widths, patterns, and colors, which makes it appropriate for many projects.
Lingerie Elastic (Picot Elastic)
As the name suggests, lingerie elastic is designed specifically for lingerie. Its unique properties ensure comfort and performance in delicate garments. Maintains width when stretched and retains elasticity after sewing.
It is soft, comfortable against the skin, and often features decorative edges. Available in diverse widths, colors, finishes, and textures (including picot edges).
Lingerie elastic is widely used in bras, underwear, and other lingerie projects.
Swimwear Elastic
Swimwear elastic stands out for its specialized properties, making it ideal for garments exposed to chlorine, saltwater, and sweat. Unlike regular elastics, it is typically firmer and resistant to chemical degradation, ensuring a longer lifespan and better shape retention in swimsuits and activewear.
Key features of swimwear elastic include:
- Chlorine and saltwater resistance: Maintains performance in harsh environments.
- Sweat resistance: Remains comfortable and functional during exercise.
- Shape retention: Ensures a snug fit while maintaining garment integrity.
- Stitch compatibility: It can be securely sewn without losing stretch.
Swimwear elastic can be of different types:
- braided cotton elastic – the most common choice, especially for home sewers. Strong and durable. Usually comes in 0.7cm to 1 cm (⅜’’) width.
- rubber elastic – often used in commercial sewing. Flat and thin, rubber elastic consists of rubber with a special coating. It is weaker than braided swimwear elastic, but more resistant to water, chlorine, and sun exposure.
- clear elastic: used to keep bands in place and in places that have direct friction with the body for maximum comfort.
Different Widths of Elastic
Elastic is available in many widths, from narrow thread to wide bands. The width of the elastic you choose will depend on the application. Sewing patterns usually come with instructions on which elastic width is appropriate for the sewing project.
When to Use Different Types of Elastic
Here is a general guide to when to use different types of elastic:
- Knitted elastic: For everyday garments, underwear, swimwear, and sportswear.
- Woven elastic: For garments that need to be supportive.
- Braided elastic: For garments that need to be very comfortable, in casings on necklines and sleeves.
- Round elastic: For garments that will be exposed to a lot of wear and tear, such as workwear and outdoor apparel.
- Elastic thread: For shirring decorative and functional elements
- Buttonhole elastic: For use in adjustable waistbands
- Swimwear elastic: For use in swimwear and activewear.
- Fold-over elastic: To hide the elastic and create a clean, finished look.
- Decorative elastic: To add a touch of flair to a garment.
- Lingerie elastic: For use in lingerie with functional or decorative purposes.
- Clear elastic: For use in knit fabrics to reinforce seams and for delicate lingerie garments.
TYPES OF ELASTIC GUIDE
Here is a table showing the different types of elastic and when you can use them.
Master Elastic Sewing: Tips & Tricks
Here are some tips on sewing with elastic:
Stretch It Out
Always test and stretch your elastic to see how it rebounds. Elasticity may vary between manufacturers even if you use the right type of elastic for your project. Trim as needed.
Skip the Guesswork
Sewing patterns usually suggest the amount of elastic you will need. Treat pattern lengths as suggestions, especially for elastics with varying stretch. Try before you stitch!
Needle Know-How
Just as with fabrics with elasticity, you need to use ballpoint or stretch needles for direct stitching to avoid skipped stitches.
Zig-Zag or Stretch Seams for Strength
When stitching elastic to fabric edges, use a zig-zag, stretch stitch. or serger/ coverstitch machine for durability. This way the seams won’t burst when the garment is stretched and worn.
Sewing Methods
Choose between casings/channels or direct stitching based on your project and adjust your elastic choice.
Pin in Place
Safety pins are your friends! Use them to distribute elastic evenly along the garment for easy fitting before sewing.
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In Conclusion on Elastic for Sewing
Elastic is a versatile tool that you can use to create different construction and decorative effects in sewing. By understanding the different types of elastic and when to use them, you can make garments and accessories that look great and feel comfortable.
I have a couple of tutorials on how to sew elastic in different garments. There also is one coming on how to sew elastic in swimwear and leotards. If you would like to explore elastic further, check out these tutorials:
Thank you very much! I’m not a sewer but use sewing to make alterations, sewing by hand, mostly. Elastic is so versatile I use it often, but what type is guesswork for me. So this information is very helpful. Thank you!