Threads are the invisible force that transforms fabric into garments, accessories, and home decor items. However, with so many types available, it can be overwhelming to know which one to choose for your project.
This guide will help you understand the different types of sewing thread and how to choose the right one for your needs.
Factors Affecting Sewing Thread Function
Many factors influence the performance of sewing thread, encompassing both aesthetic and functional aspects.
Aesthetics
When selecting the right thread for your sewing project, you should consider color, luster, and thickness.
Color matching, both hue and shade, is essential for achieving a cohesive look. Even if the seams are used only on the inside of the garment, picking up a matching color grants more professional-looking results.
Colorfastness ensures that the thread retains its vibrancy over time.
For a quality sewing project, picking the right thickness is just as important as the type of thread.
Performance
Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the rigors of sewing, garment finishing, and regular wear. The thread’s ability to resist tension, ensuring the integrity of the seams, is called seam strength.
Here are some of the qualities in threads that you should consider when making a buying decision:
- Abrasion resistance
Determines the thread’s ability to withstand wear and tear, particularly in areas subject to friction.
- Elasticity
Allows the thread to stretch and recover along with the fabric, maintaining comfort and movement.
- Chemical resistance
Ensures that the thread can withstand exposure to various chemicals, such as detergents or cleaning agents.
- Flammability
Refers to the thread’s propensity to ignite or catch fire, which is particularly important for garments worn near open flames or heat sources.
- Water resistance
The ability of the thread to repel water and prevent it from soaking through.
- Colorfastness
How the thread maintains color over time and through various exposures.
Sewability
The sewability of a thread is its ability to run smoothly through a sewing machine.
Threads with good sewability are uniform in diameter and have a smooth surface finish.
The uniform diameter ensures that the thread does not break or skip stitches, while a smooth surface finish reduces friction and promotes easy movement through the machine.
Types of Sewing Threads Based on The Fiber Composition
There are many types of sewing thread, broadly categorized into two main types: natural and synthetic.
Natural Sewing Threads
As the name suggests, natural sewing threads are made from natural fibers, such as cotton, silk, and wool. They are soft, breathable, and have a luxurious feel.
Here are the most common types of natural sewing threads:
Cotton thread is strong, durable, and easy to sew with. This makes it a good choice for a wide range of fabrics, from lightweight cotton to heavy-duty canvas.
Cotton is known for its exceptional absorbency, allowing vibrant dyeing results.
However, cotton thread lacks stretch and tends to break under high tension, making it unsuitable for stretch fabrics.
Rayon is a plant-based fiber (created from wood pulp) that retains color and shine over time.
Rayon’s high absorbency, fade resistance, smooth finish, and subtle sheen make it a popular choice for embroidery, topstitching, and monogramming.
It adds a touch of elegance to decorative sewing projects, but it is not recommended for heavy-duty applications such as seams.
Silk thread is the strongest natural sewing thread. It is also very smooth and lustrous. It is washable, holds dye well, and is non-abrasive.
Like rayon, silk thread is mainly used in hand sewing, couture fashion, and fine embroidery.
The wool thread is warm, soft, and durable. It’s created from sheep fleece for use in hand and machine sewing.
The wool thread is a popular choice for hand needlework, embellishing thicker fabrics, and creating textured designs. As with other natural fiber threads, wool thread accepts dyes exceptionally well.
High-quality wool thread is usually more expensive.
Linen thread, derived from the flax plant, is a luxurious and durable choice for both hand and machine sewing projects.
Linen thread is exceptionally strong and resistant to abrasion, making it suitable for heavy-duty projects such as upholstery, bags, and straps.
Its natural breathability and absorbency make it ideal for sewing with linen fabrics.
However, linen thread tends to be stiffer and less elastic than cotton thread, making it inappropriate for projects requiring stretch or intricate details.
Synthetic Sewing Threads
Synthetic sewing threads consist of man-made fibers, such as polyester and nylon. They are strong and resistant to shrinkage and fading. Synthetic sewing threads are a good choice for heavy-duty fabrics and garments that will be exposed to the elements and/or worn intensively.
- Polyester thread
Polyester thread is known for its low maintenance, durability, longevity, and affordability, making it an ideal choice for All-Purpose Thread.
Polyester thread resists moisture absorption and can withstand moderate heat. It also resists shrinkage and offers slight elasticity with excellent recovery.
It can be made in a way that resembles the appearance of cotton, silk, and even nylon. Polyester thread is a good choice for a wide range of fabrics, both natural and synthetic, as well as machine embroidery.
Nylon thread is the strongest synthetic sewing thread. It is less expensive, doesn’t shrink, and has good elasticity. It is also very resistant to abrasion and chemicals. The nylon thread also has some limitations. For example, it doesn’t hold color very well and is not resistant to high temperatures.
Nylon thread is often used for outdoor wear, workwear, and upholstery. Wooly nylon thread is a good choice for swimwear and activewear due to its high stretch and recovery qualities.
Different types of sewing threads based on their purpose
All-purpose Treads (General-Purpose Threads)
General-purpose threads, or all-purpose threads, are the most common and cost-effective type of thread.
Made primarily from polyester, they are versatile and suitable for many sewing projects. All-purpose threads are available in a vast array of colors and can be used for both machine and hand sewing and with most fabrics, from lightweight to heavyweight.
All-purpose threads are used for seam construction, edge stitching, hemming, quilting, etc.
Limitations:
- Not ideal for very fine fabrics, heavy denim, or canvas.
- Not recommended for projects exposed to constant sunlight or high heat.
Cotton Threads
Cotton thread is another versatile option, mainly for pairing with cotton-based and other natural materials. Cotton threads are most often used for lightweight garments, decorative stitching, quilting, and with cotton fabrics.
Cotton thread has some limitations compared to synthetic threads like polyester. It is not as strong as polyester threads and that’s why you should avoid using it in tight-fitting garments or items exposed to sweat or chlorine. It is also not suitable for fabrics with stretch.
Embroidery Threads
Embroidery threads, including machine and hand embroidery threads, are designed for decorative stitching and embellishment rather than garment construction.
They come in different fiber types, each offering unique properties and effects.
Embroidery threads can be specialty, rayon, polyester, cotton, and silk. They might have divisible strands that allow for adjusting thread thickness for varying effects.
This type of thread is usually used in hand embroidery, machine embroidery, and needlepoint.
Material Options for Embroidery Threads:
- Rayon: Popular for its high sheen and affordability, but not as durable as polyester.
- Polyester: Offers strength and colorfastness, suitable for heavier fabrics.
- Cotton: Soft and absorbent, ideal for delicate fabrics.
- Silk: Strong, luxurious, and lustrous, best suited for fine embroidery.
Quilting Threads
These threads are created according to the unique demands of quilting and are appropriate for both machine and hand use.
Quilting threads have a wax finish for easy gliding through multiple layers of fabric and batting. They can be mercerized for enhanced strength and colorfastness, and gassed to reduce lint and prevent fabric damage.
Quilting threads are used for piecing together quilt layers, attaching quilt tops to batting, quilting stitches, sewing buttons and beads, etc.
Material Options for Quilting Threads:
- Cotton: Soft, breathable, and absorbent, ideal for delicate fabrics and traditional quilting.
- Polyester: Strong and durable, suitable for heavy-duty quilting and machine quilting.
- Blends: Combine the strengths of cotton and polyester for a balanced performance.
Heavy-Duty Threads
Heavy-duty threads, also known as upholstery threads, are designed to withstand the rigors of heavy-duty fabrics and demanding applications. They offer superior strength, durability, and abrasion resistance. They are particularly well-suited for outdoor projects and upholstery.
Applications:
- Heavyweight fabrics: Canvas, duck cloth, denim.
- Outdoor projects: Camping gear, luggage, sports equipment.
- Upholstery: Furniture, cushions, bags.
Specific Types of Heavy-Duty Threads:
- Industrial heavy-duty thread is used in industrial sewing machines.
- Upholstery thread is available in cotton, nylon, polyester, and silk, each offering unique properties for specific upholstery applications.
Jeans Thread (Denim Thread)
Jeans thread, also called denim thread, is designed to handle the unique challenges of sewing denim fabric.
Its robust construction and colorfastness make it ideal for creating and repairing jeans, jackets, and other denim fabric items. You can choose shades of blue to complement your denim fabric or a contrasting jeans thread to make a statement.
As with other specialty threads, jeans thread requires a special jeans needle or heavy universal needle for optimal performance.
Invisible Sewing Thread
Invisible sewing thread, also known as monofilament or continuous filament thread, is a transparent thread that creates a nearly invisible stitch line. It’s a popular choice for delicate projects where you want to minimize the appearance of stitching.
Despite its thinness, monofilament thread is surprisingly strong and durable.
The invisible thread allows stitches to blend seamlessly with the fabric and is suitable for a variety of sewing applications, including quilting, hems and hemstitching, gathering and shirring, attaching appliqués, and even upholstery.
Here are some tips for sewing with invisible thread:
- Choose a clear thread for light fabrics and a smoky tint for dark fabrics.
- Use a metallic thread needle to prevent thread breakage.
- Employ a thread net to prevent fine monofilament thread from slipping out of the machine.
Elastic Thread
Elastic thread, also known as shirring thread, is a thread with built-in elasticity, designed for creating gathered and shirred effects on fabric. It’s used for adding decorative elements and enhancing the fit of garments.
Elastic thread can be used for gathered waistlines and cuffs, adding decorative shirring to garments, and enhancing the fit of stretchy fabrics.
Here are some tips for sewing with elastic thread:
- Wind the elastic thread in the bobbin and an all-purpose thread in the needle.
- Shrinking the elastic thread with steam can further enhance shirring.
- Check out this step-by-step tutorial on how to sew with elastic thread.
Serger Thread
Serger thread, also known as overlocker thread, is designed for use in serger machines. It comes in larger cones to accommodate the higher thread consumption of sergers and is made from polyester for durability and strength.
Topstitch Thread
Topstitch thread is a thicker, more prominent thread created for decorative topstitching and for adding visual emphasis to seams, pockets, bags, and heavier items. Its thicker profile creates a distinctive raised effect.
Tips for sewing with topstitch thread:
- Use a topstitch needle to accommodate the thicker thread.
- Choose a topstitch thread compatible with the fabric weight and type.
Metallic Thread
Metallic threads are used in decorative stitching and embroidery and come in many colors and shades. They appear to be made out of metal, however, they are typically composed of polyester to replicate the look at a more affordable price.
Tips for sewing with metallic thread:
- Use a metallic thread needle to prevent thread breakage.
- Adjust thread tension carefully to prevent splitting.
- Choose a thread weight suitable for the fabric type.
- Avoid high heat or steam, as it can damage the metallic coating.
Variegated Thread
Variegated thread, featuring gradual color transitions along its length, is another way to add visual interest and dimension to sewing projects that require decorative stitching and embellishments.
Variegated threads are suitable for both decorative and utility stitching. They also come in different fiber types like polyester, cotton, and rayon.
Basting Thread
Basting thread, also known as tacking thread, is a lightweight, easily removable thread used for temporary stitching. Its primary purpose is to hold fabric pieces together during construction, ensuring accurate alignment and ease of manipulation.
You can use basting thread for basting seams, gathering and fixing pleats, or transferring pattern markings onto fabric.
Tips for sewing with elastic thread:
- Use a seam ripper or sharp scissors to carefully remove basting stitches.
- Choose a contrasting color for easy identification and removal.
Wooly Nylon Thread
Wooly nylon thread, also known as textured nylon thread, is used for sewing stretch fabrics, providing smooth, durable seams that can withstand the unique demands of stretchy materials.
Its fuzzy texture and elasticity provide exceptional stretch recovery, preventing seams from breaking or puckering under tension.
Wooly nylon thread is mostly used for sewing swimwear, constructing leotards and activewear, and attaching stretch appliqués and embellishments.
Tips for sewing with wooly nylon thread:
- Use a ballpoint needle to accommodate the fuzzy texture of wooly nylon thread.
- Choose wooly nylon thread compatible with the weight and stretchiness of the fabric.
Different Types of Sewing Threads by Weight
In addition to the material they are made of, sewing threads are also categorized by their weight. Thread weight is a measure of the thickness of the thread.
Usually, the higher the tread weight, the smaller the number.
Unlike other notions (like needles for example) there is no industry standard of numbering the thread size by weight. That’s why you can come across different sizing and labeling by different brands.
Here is a general guide table for sewing thread use by weight.
Again, this sizing might not be adequate for the brand of thread you are using. When making a buying decision, always check the brand sizing tables to pick the right size for your needs.
The weight of the thread you choose will depend on the fabric you are sewing. Here are some general guidelines:
- For delicate fabrics, such as silk and voile, use a lightweight thread.
- For light- to medium-weight fabrics, such as cotton and poplin, use a medium-weight thread.
- For heavy fabrics, such as denim and upholstery, use a heavy-duty thread.
Picking the right size thread according to the needle size
In addition to choosing the right thread for your project, you also need to make the right needle and thread combination. To do that, make sure that the thread passes freely through the needle’s eye. The ideal combination is for the thread to fill about 70% of the eye.
If you have any doubts, here is a quick test that you can do to pick the right needle and thread combination.
To test if the thread and needle match, attach a longer piece of the thread to the needle and hold it vertically.
- The needle will drop to the bottom of the thread if it is too big.
- If the needle is too small, it will remain at the top of the thread.
- The needle will gradually spiral down the thread if it is the correct size.
Properties of good quality sewing threads
Last but not least, whatever the sewing project and the type of thread it asks for, here are some properties that you should find in a high-quality thread.
Essential Properties of Sewing Thread:
- High tensile strength: Resists breaking under tension, ensuring durable seams.
- Smooth surface: Minimizes friction during sewing, preventing thread breakage and enhancing sewability.
- Uniform thickness: Provides consistent thread movement through the needle and fabric.
- Good elasticity: Allows the thread to recover its original shape, maintaining seam integrity.
- Colorfastness: Retains color vibrancy despite washing, bleaching, and light exposure.
- Chemical resistance: Withstands exposure to various chemicals.
- Abrasion resistance: Maintains structural integrity and prevents thread wear and tear.
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In Conclusion on Sewing Threads
Choosing the right sewing thread is essential for achieving a professional-looking finish on your sewing projects.
By understanding the different types of thread and how to choose the right weight, you can ensure that your seams are strong, durable, and look great.
I hope this guide has helped you learn more about sewing thread! Happy sewing!
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