How to make a pencil skirt pattern

In this post, I am going to show you how to make a pencil skirt. Drafting the pencil skirt pattern repeats many of the steps we followed to make the basic straight skirt.

If you already know how to draft the straight skirt, you can scroll down to the end of this post. There are the adjustments made to the hemline that actually differ a straight from a pencil skirt.

If you’ve already drafted the basic skirt pattern, you can simply make the changes described below and then trace out the new pattern using tracing paper.

If you don’t have a basic skirt pattern, here is how to draft the pencil skirt from scratch.

How to make a pensil skirt pattern

Measurements for making the pencil skirt

Taking measurements for a skirt pattern

For the pencil skirt, we are going to need the waist, hips, waist to hips (hip depth) and overall length. We are also going to need the circumference at the hemline.

  • Waist

Measure the smallest part of the waist. 

  • Hips

Measure at the widest part of the hips. If you have a bigger belly, you should measure the circumference of your hips through the lower part of the abdominals (as shown on B on the right).

  • Hip depth

This is the distance between the waist and the widest part of the hips you just measured.

  • Length

Measure the overall length of the skirt on the outer leg. Start from the waist and measure down as long as you want the skirt to finish.

  • How much you need to take in at the hemline

This measurement is a bit tricky. It’s because it widely depends on your preferences regarding the fit. If you want the pencil skirt really fitted at the hemline, take the measurements around the knees, or calves, tights (where your hemline is).

Then subtract this measurement from the hip measurement in order to find out how much you need to take in at the hemline. Divide that measurement by 4 because you are going to work on ¼ front and back pattern.

You might want to add a couple of inches for ease of movement. This depends on the fabric you are working with and the fit you want to achieve. There is no exact