Harem pants and all their variations never seem to go out of fashion. They are a great project for beginners in pattern making and sewing. There are many different options to style those type of pants, and they can be approached differently when drafting.
In this tutorial, I am going to show you three different ways to draft a harem pants pattern. You can choose the one that you like best, or make all of them. This is a beginner’s friendly project that can help you gain confidence when drafting your own patterns.
If this sounds interesting to you, let’s get to the steps to follow.
Steps to follow for drafting the harem pants:
1.Take your measurements.
- Measure the waist or a little lower, where you want the harem pants to stay. As usual, we are going to work with 1/4 waist measurement when we build a quarter pattern and 1/2 waist we draft a half pattern.
- The overall length. Measure how low would you like to go from the waist on the outer leg seam.
- The width of the ankle/calf/knee where the leg opening would be, according to the overall length.
2.Get the tools and supplies you are going to need ready. That would be some paper, a ruler, scissors for paper, and something to draft with.
As any other type of flat pattern drafting, the harem pants might be approached differently. In this tutorial, I am going to show you three different ways to make the pattern. You can make the first two by drafting them up from measurements. The third way is going to use a basic pants pattern. It can be the one that we drafted in the previous post or a commercial pattern that fits.
Drafting the harem pants – version 1
To make the pattern, we are going to need these measurements:
- 1/4 of the waist measurement (or lower, this depends on how low we would like them to go on the waist). Again, this is the basic flat pattern you can use in your designs. Have in mind that you need to add for a waistband, zip, seam allowance, etc. according to the design you are creating, the fabric and so on;
- length – measure the outer leg. If you are planning to add cuffs, you might want to take them out of the overall length;
- leg opening: you can measure around the calf, the ankle or even the knee, according to your personal preferences for length. Leave an additional inch or 2, so it doesn’t get too tight;
- drop crotch – measure how low you want the crotch. Make sure to have in mind the overall length so your design keeps proportions.
2. Building up the pattern:
- start by drafting the 1/4 waist horizontally and the length vertically. Mark points A and B as shown in figure 1. Lengthen the horizontal line with 8 inches/20 cm to form our imaginary center fold. Finish the rectangle by drawing its other two sides. Measure down from point C to as long as the crotch would go and mark point E.
- from point A towards D, apply the leg opening measurement (figure 2). Mark 2 inches/5 cm up from the hem. That would be point F. Connect point E with B and F. The harem pants pattern is almost ready. We just need to make some final adjustments to refine it.
- You should always aim for a 90-degree angle at the crotch of the harem pants. Otherwise, there might be a strange curve at the bottom. The way we drafted the pattern, the angle at the crotch is a bit bigger. We need to work on that.
There are two ways to approach this issue (figure 3). You can curve the whole line that connects the leg opening and the crotch (option 1)
you can lift a bit just at the crotch line for a couple of inches and keep the rest of the line straight (option 2).
Drafting the harem pants – version 2
To make the pattern we are going to need the exact same measurements we used to draft version 1.
This includes 1/4 waist circumference, overall length, leg opening, crotch rise. Unlike the first version, WE ARE GOING TO DRAFT A PATTERN FOR 1/2 THE PANTS, NOT 1/4.
2. Drafting the pattern:
- start by making a rectangle. The vertical side should be as long as the overall length and the horizontal side should be approximately 44 inches/112 cm (figure 1). If you are drafting a very large size, you might add a couple of inches/ cms to the horizontal side so that everything stays in proportion.
- the next step is to mark the middle of the rectangle vertically (at 22 inches/56 cm). Then, apply 1/4 waist in both directions and mark it as points A and B (figure 2). As a result, you should have the 1/2 waist positioned in the middle of the line.
- then, starting at the bottom angles of the rectangle, apply 1/2 leg opening and mark it as points E. In this example, a 1/2 leg opening would be 6 inches/ 15 cm. Then, from the corners up, measure 2 inches/ 5 cm and mark points D (figure 2).
- the last step here would be to measure the crotch rise (how low the crotch would go) and mark it as point C.
- connect points D with A and B, to form the outer leg seam line (figure 4). Next, connect points D and E to make the leg openings. Connect points E with the center point C to make the crotch line.
- the last thing we need to do is to create that right angle at the center bottom. I usually do that by curving the line so it looks natural. It looks something like the image below with higher and lower crotch rise (figures 5 and 6).
Drafting the harem pants – version 3
Drafting this type of pattern resembles drafting regular pants very much. The difference is that you have to make the crotch curves just 4-5 inches (10-12 cm) lower than a regular pants crotch. You can use a pants pattern that you have for a base and just make some adjustments to the crotch.
you can draft a pants sloper from scratch, following this tutorial and then make these adjustments.
No matter how you chose to approach your pattern, I am sure you are going to get good results. Please share your results, questions or frustrations in the comment box below, I would like to help any way I can.
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