In a previous post, we already showed different options to draft the harem pants pattern from scratch. Our goal now is to show you how to design harem pants, by modifying a commercial pants pattern, or one you drafted yourself.
Don’t be overwhelmed by how this sounds, this is another beginner-friendly project.
Again, there are three different approaches to this task that I am going to show you in this lesson. The designs you see in the pictures below were created using these exact steps. Feel free to choose the one that is going to work best for you.
Modifying the pants pattern to harem pants – variant 1
This is how I made the pattern for this pair of pants.
You can see that the crotch doesn’t go too low, just a couple of inches. I worked on an existing pattern. I kept all its features, including the fly, the zipper and the pockets. The only thing I changed was the crotch rise.
To achieve a similar look to the image on the left, you should choose this variant of altering the pattern.
It is not a big change, just 5-6 inches/12-15 cm lower than the original rise of the crotch. That’s why we need to keep the curve in its original shape.
it is not going to restrict the movement of the body. I wouldn’t recommend this variant of modifying the pants pattern if you want a really low crotch. If you do, you should straighten the crotch curve, or even better, use some of the other two variants to modify the pants pattern.
In this variation, we need to alter both the front and the back pattern detail. We are going to cut and sew 4 details, as we do with a regular pants pattern.
Measurements that we need:
The only measurement for this pattern modification is the crotch rise. Just measure how low you would like the crotch to go.
Here are the steps to follow:
- decide how low you want to make the crotch line go. As I said, in my case, it was 5-6 inches/12-15 cm lower than the original rise of the crotch. Make sure to apply the same distance on both the front and the back panel of the pattern (figure 1).
- use a french curve ruler or any other way to replicate the crotch curves exactly (figure 2). Keep in mind that there is a difference between the front and the back crotch curve. Keep them as they are.
- starting at the waistline, measure and mark the same distance that you are about to use to lower the crotch (figure 3).
- move the duplicated crotch curves down, starting at the new mark and finishing at the end of the first arrows (figure 3).
- redraw the curve, then connect the end of the curve with the leg in as natural shape as possible.
- the new pattern should look like the drawing on figure 5.
You can make this modification to any pattern size.
Modifying the pants pattern to harem pants – variant 2
In this variation, you can choose to alter both front and back pattern detail (especially if you keep the darts and zip), or just one of them. We are going to draft 1/2 front/back and use only two pattern details to cut.
Measurements that we need:
- crotch rise (how low the crotch would go);
- overall length (from waist to hem, measuring on the outer seam);
- leg opening, where your harem pants would end. It could be the ankle, the knee or the calf, according to your preferences.
To make this modification, we are going to follow these steps:
- again, we have to decide how low we would like to draft the crotch and mark point A (figure 1). Then, make a horizontal line that starts approximately in the middle of the leg and, passing through point A, extends double the length from start to point A. Mark point B at the end of the line we’ve just drafted (figure 2). We don’t have to be absolutely precise here. We are going to adjust the overall length of this line later.
- mark point C at the middle front/back detail (figure 3). Connect points B and C.
- from the outer leg towards the middle of the pattern detail, measure as wide as the width of the dart (if there is any) and mark point D (figure 3). We do this if we want to make the harem pants without the dart. That would be in case we modify the pattern for knit or stretchy fabrics that don’t need shaping with darts. In case you are keeping the dart, you should keep the width of the waist as it is. Keep in mind that in that case, you are probably going to need a zip, which you should add at the side seam. Starting at the waist, draw a straight line down. This line should be as long as you want the harem pants to be. At the end of that line, mark point E (figure 3).
- from point E towards the middle, apply 1/2 of the leg opening circumference and mark point F (figure 4).
- connect point F to point B (figure 5).
- adjust the position of point B and the crotch line curve, so that you get a nice right angle in the middle (figure 6).
Modifying the pants pattern to harem pants – variant 3
The third way to design harem pants is very similar to the one above. In my opinion, it’s the easiest way to do it.
Measurements we are going to need:
We are going to need the same measurements as in variant 2.
Steps to follow:
- take the pattern detail and position it so that the waist and the crotch match the edge of the paper. Mark those two points as A and B (figure 1).
- measure the crotch rise and mark point C (figure 2).
- measure and mark the desired length on the outer seam (figure 3).
- from the outer seam inwards, apply 1/2 leg opening circumference.
- connect the inner leg opening with point C.
- redraw the curve so that the angle in the middle of the crotch curve is right (90-degree angle).
- in the middle of the waist, re-draw the line to form a more natural line.
You can see the new pattern with a higher and a lower rise on figures 2 and 3.
I hope you are going to find those tree ways to design harem pants useful and the instructions easy to follow. If I can help with anything, please ask here or email me through the contact form.
- How to draft a pants pattern like a pro
- 3 Easy Ways To Draft a Harem Pants Pattern
- Free Downloadable Sewing Pattern and Sewing Instructions – Harem Pants
- How to draft a circle skirt pattern
- Tanya’s Jersey Knit Dress/ Tunic Sewing Pattern