How To Shorten Pants With Double Folded Hem 4


shorten-pantsYou have a pair of pants that seem too long? Why don’t you learn how to shorten pants yourself? All you need is a sewing machine, chalk and some pins.

There are a few different ways to shorten  pants, depending on the type of stitch you use, the fabric your pants are made of and the design of the pants. 

 In this tutorial, I am going to show you one of the most common ways of hemming – by double folding the extra fabric. This way to shorten pants looks good on most designs, including jeans. It doesn’t keep the worn out effect some original hems have, but it works fine too. You can find it on most woven ready to wear pants.

Read about another common way to shorten pants.

Making a double folded hem

One of the most common ways to make a hem on pants is by double folding the allowance that is left in excess of the desired length of the pants.

The instruments we are going to need:

  • chalk.

Before I discovered water-soluble chalk, I used small slivers of dried soap (the one you use in the bathroom 🙂 )instead of regular chalk. The reason for that is because regular chalk often leaves marks that are not easy to clean after you are done, especially on delicate fabrics. Soap, on the other hand, would vanish with the steam of the iron.  I still use it when I run out of supplies of chalk. It does a perfect job.

  • scissors.

You will need it to cut out the excess fabric after you leave the allowance for the fold.

  • seam ripper.

If the pants are just a little bit longer than they should be, the original stitches must be removed so that you can leave enough excess fabric for the double hem.

  • regular sewing machine.
  • iron.

Measure.

First, take measure exactly how much you want to shorten the pants. The length that usually works well with any design is by the end of the heel when you are standing. This length lets you wear the pants with a different style of shoes, flats or high heels.

If you are about to wear the pants only with high heels, you might leave them a little longer, because it usually looks better. Another thing you might have in mind when choosing the length is that pants with wider legs look better when longer and slims look better a bit shorter. Otherwise, slim pants tend to make folds on the ankle that not always look good.

After I take measure by folding the excess fabric up, I pin it so that the fold doesn’t move (picture 1). Then I measure how many centimetres/inches the fold is and make a mark with the chalk (picture 2). I put marks on both sides of the leg and connect them with the ruler (picture 3). I do this on both sides of the leg and connect the marks in a circle (picture 4).double-folded-hem-pants

TIP. Very often there is some difference in length of both of the legs.The hem may be made on one side, or in the shape of a curve. Or, some of the vertical side seams may pull the fabric a bit up. This used to make me frustrated. I was not sure how to fix it and where to cut. What I find out to be working is to make the marks on both sides of the leg and make a straight line, disregarding the differences in the middle.

Mark.

Once you have that line made, you need to make another one below where you are going to cut (picture 5). You need to leave some more fabric for the fold. DO NOT CUT ON THE FIRST LINE. It is left for the edge of the hem and shows how long the pants are going to be when finished.
I like to double check if the lines of both legs match. This assures me that I measured correctly.
In this particular case,
I had to remove the original seam. It didn’t allow me to leave the desired allowance. I aim for 2.5 cm/1 inch hem width as it was industrially made.how-to-shorten-pants

TIP. Fabrics, made of non-synthetic, natural materials (like cotton, rayon, linen, etc.) tend to shrink a bit in length after treatment like washing for example. You risk having them shorter than you want after they are washed. If you are not sure about the material your pants are made from, make sure you wash them before making the hem.

So, when all the preparation is done, let’s make the hem.

Leaving the allowance for the folding

When I make a hem, I usually aim for the same look as the original. This is important when, for example, the pants have some decorative stitching elsewhere which matches the hem. I choose a thread that has the same colour and thickness as the original one.

Next, I measure the width of the original hem and double it. In this case, it was a 2.5 cm/1 inch. This means that had to leave allowance of 5 cm/2 inches bellow my first line. Then, I draw a line at that mark, too (picture 5). This is where I cut all the excess fabric (picture 6). I repeat these steps on the other leg and measure if the legs are even from the waistline to the marks we made.

This is the exact same technique I use to hem curtains, but if you want a wider hem, you might want to pin everything in place before sewing. I am going to make a new post about hemming curtains in a while.

Make the seams

Once I’ve cut the excess fabric, I fold the fabric exactly in the middle once (picture 7) and then once more (picture 8) so that the first line is exactly on the edge of the leg and the excess fabric is folded exactly twice. It might be easier for you to make an additional line in the middle of the allowance where you should fold the first time, but it is not a must.

Then I turn the leg on the wrong side and start to sew on the edge of the fold (picture 9). I use a magnetic seam guide, which helps me to make an exactly straight line when sewing. If you don’t have one, you might use a sticker, but the width of the hem will vary every time so you must remove the sticker after the hem is done. That is why I prefer the magnet, I use it on the straight stitching machine and on the coverstitch, too. The only limitation when using a magnetic seam guide is that your machine has to have a metal corpse, otherwise the magnet won’t stick. shorten-pants

You should finish the hem with some forward and back stitching as any straight seam is finished and aim for sewing exactly on the thread where you started.

The last thing you need to do is to

Iron the hem(picture 10).

TIP> Be very careful when ironing delicate fabrics on the hem. There are many layers of fabric and ironing might leave shiny marks that don’t look good. To prevent that always iron on the wrong side, especially if the material is delicate.

Now the hem is ready and it looks exactly the way it used to before we shorten the pants (pics 11 and 12).

If you have any questions or want to show off with your newly hemmed pants, please drop me a line below.

Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or want to show off with your newly hemmed pants. Use the comment box bellow or write me at daniela@sewingforaliving.com   

And remember, if it doesn’t look very pretty when finished, you can always remove the stitches and start over.


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4 thoughts on “How To Shorten Pants With Double Folded Hem

  • John

    Daniela,
    My mom and the military showed me how to sew with a needle and thread. I never did get the hang of an electric sewing machine. The information on how to shorten pants will work with my method, it will take a little more time.
    I like the idea you have of ironing the pants from the inside to not make the outside shinny.
    I have always used pencil marks on the inside for my seams, the water soluble chalk sounds like a better solution.
    John

    • Daniela

      Hello John,

      I am glad you find this post useful. If you don’t have water soluble chalk you can always use a sliver of soap, it does the same job. In my opinion sewing with a needle and thread is even a bigger skill than using the machine.

      Thank you for stopping by.

      Daniela

  • Chris

    I wish the internet was up and running when I was a kid so my mother could of come across advice like this – terrible mess on my trousers at school!
    She tried, I’ll give her that, but my pants constantly had lines where they had been sowen up and then let back down again – those were the days!

    • Daniela

      Hi Chris,

      I agree that the Internet changes lives, I’ve learned so much online, too. I have similar memories for my clothing back then LOL

      Thank you for your comment,

      Daniela